New Photos!!

 

I've just spent the whole day uploading photos! It isn't fast internet, but it is free. If you're interested, you'll see the new photos added to previous blog entries - all the way back to our time at Maupiti.

AND...I've uploaded even more photos to our flickr photo site - check them out with the link on the right, or view the slide shows by clicking here:

• American Samoa (in progress)
• Suwarrow, Cook Islands
• Maupiti and Mopelia, French Polynesia
• Bora Bora, French Polynesia
• Raiatea and Tahaa, French Polynesia

Day 7 - Hoping

Today is day 7. Day 7 of hoping to leave. Day 7 of rain. Yuck.
But...the sun shone for a brief moment this morning, so we are optimistic
that this weather system is moving on, and the typical tropical weather and
typical trade winds will be returning soon.
Of course, when there is no sun, there is no power from the solar panels. So
we have been thrifty. No excess computing/emails. No lights at night. No tv.
We've been reading a LOT. And napping. Exploring isn't too appealing in a
downpour, and we haven't been off the boat in four days.
On the other hand, we've read lots of good books. John played checkers with
me!! But...sadly I won (I didn't mean to), so I'm pretty sure we won't have
another game night for at least 6 months. We've also re-discovered James
Barber's One Pot Meals. Did you know that in addition to being a tv chef, he
also spent a fair bit of time playing on boats? Well...there you have it.
And his cook book that we have onboard has some good inspiration for us to
spice up our usual dinner fare.
When the rain stops...and we shove off...we'll let you all know. In the
meantime, don't worry about the lack of blog posts. No sun = no power = no
long drawn out blog diatribes. But...we still check emails, and love to hear
your news.

We lie in waiting....

Wearily waiting
Relentlessly raining
Continually collecting
Stealthily swatting
Languidly lying
Randomly reading
Hopelessly hoping
Creatively cooking
Ever eating
Patiently putting
Wishfully watching
Wearily waiting

These remora hung out below the boat constantly. An odd looking fish, apparently their dorsal fin has evolved to be a large sucking device...enabling them to latch onto large fish/sharks/etc and perform cleaning services!

Not yet...

A small-ish coconut crab

We have not yet left Mopelia. For two days, we've had black skies and
constant rains, so we've decided to wait until this system has settled down.
Although we're anxious to move along and see our friends who are awaiting us
in Suwarrow, we're definitely not keen to endure this weather while sailing.
So we wait.

Moving On

We're ready. The boat is full of food, fuel and water, and we're ready to go. We went for a test sail yesterday, and Renova was at her finest. We tacked through the lagoon with ease, racing and winning against a much
faster catamaran (s/he may not have been racing...but that hardly matters)! Although, Eric, and his grinding skills were likely a key component of our success.

Tomorrow, we'll set off to explore a bit more around here, and after a day or two we'll head to Bora Bora. Which will likely be our last stop with decent internet.

If you have photos for us...send them now!

Hurray...success

See that grin? That is the grin of a very happy man. I did some internet research today and found the needle jet settings for our 1970's era outboard. John spent about 15 minutes doing a bit of fiddling, and then he was happily doing circles around Renova, with our new outboard speed - IDLE!

He's pretty pleased.

PS - the masts in the background are all boats in the boat yard.

To the top...

Well, not really the top...but at least to a great viewpoint! We hiked with La Familia - Anne, Kleng, Liva and Edgar - to a great view point this afternoon. Fabulous views.

More Passage Planning

We've had a program called Virtual Passage Planner for ages. Since Mexico.
And I've played with it. But I missed some very important features. So I
didn't find it very interesting, and we haven't been using it. But, Eric
mentioned over cocktails that this program will also optimize a suggested
route, based on time of year, and historical weather averages. All of a
sudden this program looks a lot more interesting.

So this morning, we booted her up and took a look at possible passages home.
Pretty cool tool. But still we wondered about it's accuracy. So we tested
the program with our previous two passages, from Mexico to the Galapagos,
and from Galapagos to the Marquesas. It turns out that it was bang-on for
each trip. It estimated 25 days for the trip to the Galapagos - we took 26 -
and an estimate of 24 days for the trip to the Marquesas - we took 23.

Of course, if you know John, you'll giggle when I tell you that this was too
little info too late!

Well...the wind is up...so we're off to try windsurfing on the other side of
the island. Wish us luck!!

Windsurfing

We had success windsurfing today. I managed to get a short planing tack, before being catapulted over the top of the mast. John got in a few planing tacks. This time at least, I was able to return to the boat, and John didn't have to row out to rescue me. But, I'm still having a tough time on this board (88l), in the gusty winds. DWD would have been having the time of his life! But, it sure was great to be out in the water again!!

Since we were already on the east side of the island, we tied up to the dock at Utaroa to fill the fuel tanks, and to do another big grocery shop. This is the last time we'll be seeing well-stocked grocery stores, or hardware stores, for a while, so we're filling up. We expect to be self-sufficient for at two-three months, until we reach American Samoa. John is ready. I'm a bit reluctant. It is lovely here. But we have not stayed in one place so long since Mexico! So, I expect we'll be on our way next week.

Chart-plotting Heaven

Yep...that is where we are. In chart plotting heaven. Before leaving home, I downloaded a new open-source charting program (OpenCPN), and I was able to install it today on our navigation computer. The fabulous part is it is compatible with a variety of electronic chart file types, so we have chart coverage for most of the world. I've managed to get it up and running, link it to our GPS receiver, and we're happily playing with a variety of different route options. Very cool.

Allez...nana

Well. If you speak french, you know that Allez means GO. And if you speak
tahitian, you'd know that Nana is Goodbye.

Last year, when people here said Allez to us, we kinda thought they were
telling us to go. Good bye. Good riddance. We were a bit taken aback.

But, I'm happy to report that it is also a friendly way of saying goodbye.
More and more, we've noticed people say to us "Allez, nana". By our very
astute cultural intuition, we figure that they can't all hate us...so it
must be friendly!!

(Even more proof that our translaters are welcome to arrive at any time).

Fixed....sorta

After an evening of cocktails aboard Lady Meg, with Australia 31, we all came up with a number of possible culprits for our outboard problems. Before breakfast the next morning, John had her running again.

Mark, you were right, that guy can fix anything!!

So, once again, we can get to shore, and to visit other boats. We still can't idle, and we're a one-speed show, but for now, we're happy with that.

If it ain't broke....

Well, Lil Ev (our outboard motor for the dinghy) has been running a bit rough - in fact, it has one speed...fast. Well, as fast as a 1970's 4 hp engine can go. So not really any trouble for us...except upon approach to a crowded concrete dock, or a fellow cruiser's really nice and shiny boat. So...John decided to investigate.

Now. We have no speeds. No spark. Nada. Nothing.

Oops.
 
Here's a pic of the work in progress. On our steering pedestal.

Sucker Wind

Well, that's what we used to say at Nitinat Lake, when we'd be drawn out windsurfing in hopes of a fabulous breeze...only to slog your way back to the beach again, dejected.

Well...it was sucker wind that had us take the boat to the other side of Raiatea today, get all the gear rigged, and jump into the water...only to find out that we didn't have quite enough wind to windsurf. Hmf. Maybe tomorrow.

At least there is some comfort in knowing that we've now used the gear twice, since we left BC.

Renova's Make-over

Well, as a result of one of our cushion covers looking and smelling REALLY bad when we returned to the boat, we decided to finally recover the cushions. We've always hated our existing cushions, but they weren't bad enough to justify the expense of re-upholstery. SO....this was just the push we needed. We picked out some Polynesian fabric (surprisingly, not flowers), and I spent a full day on the boat with the sewing machine. By the time we went to visit Secret Agent Man for dinner, I had all four cushions complete, and was pretty pleased with myself!! :O)

The new, blue cushions are on the top of the image, the old, yellow-beige cushions are on the bottom. Although they didn't look bad, all the loose cushions were a pain in the butt.

Touring Tahaa

Yesterday, we took the advice our the hotel owner and took a full day tour of the neighboring island, Tahaa. The islands of Tahaa and Raiatea share a coral reef lagoon, therefore travel between the two islands is protected. While Raiatea contains the second biggest city in French Polynesia, Tahaa is very natural and relaxed and is home to only 4500 people.

Edwin picked us up in a huge outrigger canoe (powered by a merc 150) from the hotel dock, and we went around Tahaa to the north end. We anchored in ankle deep water and walked across the coral reef to the outside of the lagoon. Then we stepped into the water, and let ourselves drift into the lagoon with the current flowing into the pass. It was wonderful snorkeling, and we quickly walked across the reef to do it all again!

One of the guests managed to get a spine of an urchin into her heel. Our guide was only two happy to assist by providing some of his own urine to pour over the wound. An hour later the guest raved that the remedy was successful!! In addition, a couple of us managed to get small scrapes on the coral (mine was a result of chasing my wayward shoes through the shallow reef). Edwin quickly cut open a lime and sqeezed the juice and pulp all over the would. It stung like crazy - for at least 10 minutes. But today, it has healed faster than any other coral wound we've had in the past!

After the snorkeling, and snacks of fresh papaya, mango, banana, pomplemousse, and coconut, we headed back across the lagoon and visited a local pearl farm. 1992, there were 50 pearl farms on Tahaa. Now there are only 3. We had a full tour, showing us the grafting and production process. It was all very interesting, and we managed to leave with our wallets intact.

Next, we loaded into 4x4 Land Rovers, and headed across the island to a Vanilla Plantation, owned by Edwin and his family. They gave us an interesting tour (again, in english and french), explaining the production
and drying process. Surprisingly, they didn't even offer to sell any of the beans, but we managed to go home with a few to test out. After the tour, we were treated to a delightful lunch, created by Jacqueline and her daughters. We feasted on rice, coconut bread, taro root, sweet potato, blue marlin poisson cru, fish balls (also blue marline), mahi mahi with crème freche and vanilla, and other delicacies.

With full bellies, we loaded back into the trucks, and headed across the island on a dirt road. We had heard from other sailors the they had to get out and push the truck through one of the deep mud holes last week!!
Luckily, we were able to stay in the truck for the entire trip. It was rocky and rolly, but we were rewarded with a spectacular view point from the top of the mountain overlooking Hanamene Bay.

Finally, we loaded back into the canoe and were taken across the lagoon, back to Raiatea. This was the best tour excursion any of us had taken...what a treat! A full day with lots of local info provided by Edwin, Jacqueline and their son Ivan. We returned to the hotel still full with barely any appetite for dinner!

A Day on the High Seas

Well, the folks were tickled pink when we organized a day of adventure on
the high seas...well, actually, a 'toodle' around the lagoon to give the
engine a good test and to scope out a couple new snorkelling locales. We had
a great day, the engine ran like a dream, the sun was shining and all
passengers who left with the good ship Renova, were returned to port at the
end of the day, happy and glowing!
We motored to the east side of Raiatea, to the pass through which we entered
last July, and dropped the hook off a small islet. Immediately, snorkels and
suits were donned, and we were admiring the brightly coloured fish that
surrounded the boat and the reefs nearby. The captain prepared a lunch
feast, and we ate before weighing anchor towards the next islet and
snorkel/exploration expedition.
The interesting part of all of this is that Renova does not have a boarding
ladder to speak of. We have a small rope ladder, that had a few pieces of
pvc as rungs, but is notoriously difficult to use. John and I have become
adept, but only after much practice, and a considerable amount of swearing.
We suggested that the best way to board the boat, was to snorkel to shore,
where we could get in the dinghy, and then get into the boat from the
dinghy. Whew.

I got several excellent photos of the day...but most are on Nola and Mum's
cameras. So this will have to do for now (they are currently exploring Bora
Bora for two nights - honeymooner's paradise)!

We've finally moved out of the marina, and we're currently on an illegal
mooring ball, waiting for someone to notice (or cut us loose in the night).

Around the Island

We rented cars and went touring around the island of Raiatea. All in all, it was interesting to get a glimpse of the terrain and the beautiful flora, but it certainly wasn't a show-stopper for any of us. A huge marae (ancient
religious and ceremonial site) was the highlight, with excellent interpretive signs, and a great beach for a lunch stop.

The folks are staying at the Sunset Beach Hotel - with modest bungalows set amid a beautiful coconut plantations. It's close to the marina, so we walk over each afternoon for cocktails and dinner. I believe my Dad's words were that he's happier than "a pig in s**t".

To top it off, we've been fortunate to buy fresh tuna from fisherman on the side of the road, so we've certainly been eating well. And Dave and Nola raved about their first sashimi experience!

New Arrivals

Our parents arrived today. And, we're in the marina, our first since Mexico,
a year ago. Their hotel is a 10 minute walk down the road, on a beautiful
coconut plantation overlooking the lagoon. They will be here for two weeks,
and we're looking forward to exploring the islands with them!

Almost Ready to Splash!

I can hear Mark now..."finally, a picture"!! We unpacked our big bags today,
and found our camera battery charger. So here is a pic of John installing
our shiny prop and new zinc. You may notice some un-painted areas of the
hull!

We're busily working away in the yard, getting Renova set to splash. We're
hoping for Monday. We almost finished painting the bottom today. We ran out
of paint with only the rudder and a small portion of the hull to do. If we
are able to find the paint locally, we'll finish it off before we launch
tomorrow. Another boat in the yard told us they just paid $500 per gallon of
bottom paint. Yikes. If that is the cost, we'll simply have to dive more
often and scrub the bottom.

The remainder of our jobs are getting ticked off the list, and we're looking
forward to being in the water again. We've reserved a spot at the marina
nearby for next week. Wahoo...unlimited laundry!! Watch out -- here I come.

All is well on board. It is a good thing we have our parents arriving next
week, it enables us to work towards a deadline! We would likely take twice
as long otherwise. The heat is unbearable at times. Don't get me wrong...i'm
not complaining. I prefer this to the snow on the ground when we left home
earlier this week. By the way - how is the weather back home?

Have heard spotty news about the earthquake and effects (we have limited
internet usage these days). We did hear that there may be a danger of
nuclear fallout reaching BC?! Yikes. Please keep us informed of the latest
news.

(Labels: Raiatea, French Polynesia, maintenance)