Prince of Wales

Here's a few pics from our trip down the west coast of Prince of Wales Island, Alaska.

Humpback whale in Sumner Strait

Entering Hole in the Wall

Faithful captain keeping watch in the rain

Tlevak Narrows

Totems in Klawock

Totems in Klawock

Sea Otter in Sea Otter Sound

Three bears playing in Waterfall

Humpback breaching (Blurry...but you get the idea)

Sunrise in Nichols Bay

Prince of Wales - West Coast

After leaving Port Protection, we made our way down the west coast of Prince
of Wales Island. We put in long days and the mileage ticked away. We had
been told that this part of Alaska does not see many pleasure boats, and it
is so true! Even our fabulous cruising guide is pretty slim on info in this
area. We've only seen one or two other pleasure cruising boats. There are a
few fishing lodges around here and we've seen several small aluminum fishing
charter boats. And several commercial fishing boats. The landscape is
stunning. Beautiful lush green slopes. Sadly, we're seeing more clear-cut
areas than previously...what a difference it makes. It would appear that our
previous explorations were in cruise ship territory, where those types of
practices are now discouraged.

Along this coast we've stopped at Hole in the Wall, Sarkar Cove, Klawock,
Dunbar Inlet, and hopefully tonight will be Nichols Bay. We've navigated
through several narrows - El Capitan Passage, Skookumchuck, Tonowek Narrows
(aka Little Skookum Chuck), Tlevak Narrows (aka The Skookum Chuck), and Dry
Pass. That's not a typo...three SkookumChucks. Awesome.

Today is the first day we could really sail. We tried motor-sailing on some
days, but it is usually with limited success. Winds have shifted to the
NorthWest, and we're expecting more of the same over the next couple days.
Should give us good and fast conditions for our passage of Dixon Entrance as
we set our sights on Prince Rupert. Finally, Renova is returning to CANADA!

Port Protection

July 19

Port Protection is a town of 60 people on the northern tip of Prince of
Wales Island. We'd met "Alaska John" in Majuro, and he told us about this
boardwalk town, and suggested we come visit him here. And so we did. Our
timing was great - Heather was also here - and we spent a couple of days
hanging out with them, meeting the friendly locals, feasting on yummy King
Salmon, wandering along the boardwalks, picking blueberries, and navigating
to Hole in the Wall. It was great to see them again, and hear about their
recent passage from Majuro to Hawaii (via Penryn Island).

We were sad to leave them...but we're behind schedule, and we need to keep
moving.

It's A Small World

We anchored for the night in Deception Cove, a small inlet at the south end
of Wrangell Narrows. We were reading when we heard the huge engines of a
large boat...very close by. When John popped his head out, he was shocked to
see the AQUILA. We met this boat in Samoa. It's a big Alaskan crab fishing
vessel that was doing rat eradication work for the US National Wildlife
Service in the outlying US Pacific islands. John was thrilled to get a tour
of the boat and chat about Alaskan hot spots while we were in Samoa.
So...imagine our surprise, seeing them here, a year later!

We hailed them on the radio, and Kale and Angie invited us for breakfast the
next morning. What a treat. Smoked salmon and havarti omelettes with fruit
salad. Wow. We showed them some of our pics since we met them in Samoa and
heard about their work in the South Pacific, and their current work - they
have a crew of NOAA marine mammal biologists aboard. Their son Tanner is
keeping a blog... www.RVAquila.blogspot.com. We can't wait to get internet -
I'm sure it would be fascinating reading!

Petersburg

We stopped in "Alaska's Little Norway" for the night and really liked this
community - everyone was super friendly. Apparently, just over 3000 people
live here and we were told it was the wealthiest fishing community in
Alaska...that would definitely explain the big, beautiful homes we saw on
the way into the harbour. We took advantage of the laundry, showers,
grocery, seafood store, hardware store, and propane, before we headed out
again the next day, in time for slack tide in Wrangell Narrows.

We're on our way to Port Protection at the North end of Prince of Wales
Island. Home to "Alaska John" whom we met in Majuro. He and Heather are
cruising around here somewhere, and we can't wait to catch up with them and
share stories.

As we were untying from the Petersburg dock, we met a couple who had started
their cruising life many years ago in Majuro. It was fun to compare notes
and hear of their adventures...most noteworthy for us included being
attacked by pirates in the Gulf of Aden (they shot three of the pirates, and
their buddy boat rammed them)! Unfortunately, their boat was destroyed in
the Baltic Sea when they were hit by a 400+ ft ferry. Yet, they are still
cruising...albeit now in the comfort of a dreamy trawler. Amazing stories -
we wish we could have spent more time chatting with them.

Underway

I've returned from a sad, but wonderful, visit with friends and family in
Vancouver and Kamloops. We've now left Juneau, and are working our way
South. Our destination changes every day, but we'll let you know when we get
somewhere...

Arrival in Juneau

We've arrived in Juneau! We were hoping to have internet here at the dock,
to upload a few pics of our recent travels, but no luck. Yet.

The blog will be quieter this week, as I make a trip back home to be with my
family. Sadly, my grandfather passed away last week - one of our worst fears
as we have cruised in remote locations in recent years. I'm so grateful that
we have on board communications and that we're in a part of the world where
I could make travel arrangements.

John will stay with the boat in Juneau and take care of a few boat projects.

UPDATE: managed to get a few pics of Glacier Bay, Elfin Cove and Pelican onto the blog. Enjoy. 

Glacier Bay

What an amazing place. We were able to get a four day permit to visit this
National Park and UN Biosphere Reserve. We weren't planning to come here,
but we're glad we did. Our first day, we were able to see orca, humpbacks,
sea lions, sea otters, and a moose! And it was sunny!

Here's some fast Glacier Bay facts:
- The Park is over 3 million acres - the size of Connecticut
- Last night, the tide went from 18ft to -5ft.
- 250 years ago, there was no Glacier Bay - it was all ice.
- Glaciers have now receded 60 miles to the head of the bay.
- Most glacier here are receding, except two (one growing/one stable).
- 2 cruise ships, 3 tour boats, 6 charter boats, and 25 private vessels are permitted in the park each day.

Here's a few snaps...
 

 

Puffin

Sea Otters were EVERYWHERE...and crabs were not

This guy was near the visitor centre!

Brrr...a chilly Alaskan day

Hanging with the bergs - an amazing way to spend one's birthday!!

Elfin Cove

This was a community where we felt at home! After tying up to the (free)
dock, we wandered around this picturesque boardwalk community.

the walk to the grocery store

 As is our pattern, we checked out the local pub, and found the beers and fries to be
very tasty, and the locals were friendly and chatty.

The Elfin Cove Lodge

I needed to make some unplanned travel arrangements, so I asked the Elfin
Cove Lodge at the top of the dock if I might use their wifi. Donna, the new
owner, was so happy to help and she offered me a comfy seat in the lounge,
drinks from the fridge, the use of their hot tub, and even offered her car
when we get to Juneau. It is a beautiful lodge in a stunning location and if
you are contemplating an Alaska fishing trip, you should check it out:
www.elfincove.com

Yup

Happy Canada Day