Crab Feast

We arrived in Sitka just in time for the Annual All-You-Can-Eat Crab Feast!
What could be a better introduction to this town! The event is put on each
year as part of the annual music festival. We arrived before the advertised
start time and were in awe of the massive line up that was already stretched
around the building. Apparently this is serious business here. These folks
brought their own tables and chairs, most with table clothes and the
requisite crab claw crackers. Some had candles, butter warmers, napkins and
everybody had a bottle or two of wine. Oh...we felt like such tourists,
arriving in our regular sneakers (no fishing boots), and relegated to sit on
the damp wharf. But, do not be mistaken. We were not at all sad. We had crab
a-plenty. And the company of a local whom we peppered with questions about
Sitka history, highlights and must-sees!

We returned to the boat, more determined than ever, to find some used crab
pots.

A Week in Sitka Alaska

Our first week has flown by! It's been wonderful to be within reach of
hardware and grocery stores, people to talk with, and a seemingly endless
supply of french fries.

We've spent a LOT of time working on the boat, and haven't done as much
exploring in town as we were hoping. We have wondered through town tons.
We've peeked into one or two of the MANY tourist shops on the main drag. But
we've had success. We've dried and stowed several sails that we don't plan
to use in the near future. We've cleaned every piece of fabric on the boat.
We've fixed the compass light, freshwater pressure pump, engine pre-heat,
boom preventer and several other little projects. Given how long the passage
was, we're lucky that we had very few equipment/mechanical failures.

The biggest failure we've had is our computer. While here in Sitka, the
screen on our little netbook went belly up. What a disaster. I've spent
untold hours trying to retrieve the data and transfer to the big computer,
that is normally reserved for back up and movies. This is the big reason
that we haven't been posting our pictures or updating the blog. Sorry. We
hope to catch up soon.

Bald Eagle - no wonder there are not any working wind instruments on the
sailboats here!

First Day in Sitka

Our first day in Sitka has been glorious. We've been revelling in wandering
around the town, getting our bearings, and chatting to anyone who will
listen.

Checking in with the harbour master and clearing customs was a simple
procedure. In fact, it was so simple, we wondered if we'd forgotten one, or
several, steps! Only customs seemed concerned with our arrival. No
immigration. No health. No agriculture. And Customs only seemed interested
in issuing us our cruising permit, without concern for our clearance papers
from our last port, what items we have on board, etc, etc. When we asked her
if we should check with immigration, she said it wasn't necessary. We were
Canadians, after all!! Nice. We're happy to be here.

After receiving our cruising permit, we pulled on our walking shoes and
headed for town. We inspected the sporting goods store (cabin heaters), the
grocery store (greens), the trinket stores (souvenirs), and found a cute
restaurant for lunch. We also picked up a new comforter for the bed and a
propane cabin heater.

We returned to the boat for a rest and shower, during which time the
forecast gale began to make it's appearance in the harbour. Rain began to
fall, and wind whistled through the rigging of the boats. By the time we
were ready to head out for dinner, we decided against walking into town for
a dinner that we would likely sleep through. Instead we hit the nearby
golden arches and quickly returned to the boat for an early night. We were
exhausted, and slept blissfully for 10 hours, each of us waking only a few
times, our bodies well tuned to a 5 hour sleep cycle.

Now, onto boat projects and more exploring...

**We don't have internet on the boat here in the harbour, but we'll still
attempt regular updates.**

Day 39 - Arrival in Sitka

June 15 - I awoke to my night watch to see jagged mountains glowing in the
dawn light over the horizon. I could feel the biting cold of the breeze
sting my cheeks. Oh yes...welcome to Alaska!!

Over the next 8 hours we motor-sailed into the wind towards Sitka. The
weather forecast had not down-graded it's gale warning for today, so we were
anxious to get into harbour as soon as possible. As we sailed in, I was
thrilled to see numerous fishing boats and hear chatter on the radio. At 10
miles out, I radioed harbour control, and they assigned us a slip in the
harbour, and arranged for customs to clear us into the country.

At 11am Alaska time, we came secured our lines, met our new neighbours, and
wobbled on unsteady legs up to the harbour master's office.

We made it.

DAY 38 - 100 miles to go

We're crossing the North Pacific, our passage almost complete.
Jacob says we're 'savage'; we say, were merely freaks.

The accomplishment is huge, for both me and John,
4000 miles is epic, 6 weeks at sea is LONG.

Soon we'll be in Sitka, 100 miles to go,
Familiar shores await us, we just have to get through this low.

Now we scan the horizon, anxious that there will be
Gorgeous, snow-capped mountains, rising from this massive sea.

We're keen to stretch our legs, walk up and down the street,
Feast on a great meal, enjoy an undisturbed sleep.

Friends and family have sent emails, sustaining us through it all,
Now we're homeward bound, we'll see you in the fall!


----

June 14 Noon Report
Position: 56-01N, 137-35W
98 miles to Sitka, Alaska
4226 miles travelled so far
24 hr DMG: 127 nautical miles
24 hr DOG: 129 nautical miles
24 hr speed SOG: 5.4 knots (motoring)
Heading: 050
Wind: South-west 5 knots
Seas: South-west 0.5 meters

Daily position reports:
http://www.pangolin.co.nz/yotreps/tracker.php?ident=V73TN

Day 21 - Marine Debris

[I just found this blog post in my drafts folder...I wrote it on May 28, our
21st day at sea which seems like ages ago. It's now out of order, but here
it is anyway.]

All across the South Pacific, we've been pleasantly surprised that we
haven't noticed any floating garbage at sea. Of course, the beaches are full
of flip flops, plastic bottles, and lost fishing gear, but we rarely see
anything while on a passage.

This passage has been very different. We've been seeing marine debris
constantly, or at least, whenever we hang out for a few minutes outside.
With the cooler temperatures, we're not spending as much time in the
cockpit, but whenever we're out there for even a few minutes, we are
guaranteed to see some type of debris. Is this because we're at the
confluence of weather systems? Are we getting closer to the famed Pacific
Gyre? Or just that the seas are calm, and thus we CAN see what is in the
water?

Whatever the reason, we're recording our sightings for a study by the Seven
Seas Cruising Association, and for submissions to NOAA's Marine Debris
Program. That suits me just fine. It fills my often-obsessive need to file,
record, organize and list. I have a beautiful spreadsheet where I record the
date, time, position, type of debris, sea conditions, and so on. I'm even
providing photographic evidence. It makes me happy.

We've received so many emails from friends and family warning us to be on
the lookout for Tsunami debris. Houses? Ships? Concrete docks? Really? While
all this is interesting, it does make me wonder. If we (and presumably
others) are recording sightings and sending them to NOAA, what are they
doing with this information? Surely, the significant debris could be
tracked, or at least, with an estimated course and speed, a rough position
could be determined. Wouldn't it be useful if that information was then
communicated back to vessels in the name of safety at sea?? I should think
so. And I wish we had internet so I could look it up. If there are houses,
ships, containers adrift out here, shouldn't there be a good system of
letting me know?? Weird.

If you find out, let me know.

[June 13 follow up: We have not noticed floating debris since the beginning
of June...even on the calm days.]

DAY 36 - Seven ships!

It's June 12 and as we move closer to land it is warming up. 15'c in the
cabin (unassisted by the kerosene heater) is downright balmy these days.
Heck, I'm only wearing three pairs of pants today! Lovely. I've got my
fingers crossed that the mercury keeps rising! I wouldn't mind removing one
of my toques.

I'm expecting to be struck by that rich, deep, dank smell of dirt anytime
now. I suppose the ground could still be frozen, it is Alaska after all, but
I'm still hoping to be overwhelmed by scent on one of these moments when I
step out in the cockpit to look around. Who would have thought that I'd look
forward to the smell of dirt?

The birds are changing. We haven't seen a Laysan's Albatross in a couple
days. And we have now spotted some puffins!! And several other petrels that
we don't have a hope in identifying.

John saw (well, really the AIS saw and John confirmed) SEVEN ships in his 6
hour watch last night. We've only seen 7 ships in the entire previous 35
days, so this was pretty significant. And none in the 12 hours since his
watch ended. Maybe we passed through a party in the shipping lanes or
perhaps there was a big fishery opening. I suspect we'll never know.

Life is good. We're eating up the rest of the goodies on board - we no
longer worry about whether the Pringle supply will last to the end of the
passage. Normally we lose a bit of weight on a passage, but not this time.
Our bodies have had plenty of time to adjust to the motion, and re-establish
our usual sweet and salty high calorie cravings.

-----
June 12 noon report:
Position: 53-47N, 143-36W
344 miles to Sitka, Alaska
3976 miles travelled so far
24 hr DMG: 128 nautical miles
24 hr DOG: 131 nautical miles
24 hr speed SOG: 5.5 knots
Course: 057
Wind: West 11 knots
Seas: West 1.0 meters

Daily position reports:
http://www.pangolin.co.nz/yotreps/tracker.php?ident=V73TN

Day 34 - Grinding to a Halt

June 10. It figures. As soon as we start counting down the miles remaining
and estimating landfall dates, we find ourselves in a low-wind zone. We're
bobbing along at 2 knots. The GRIB forecasts indicate we'll have a couple
days of this low-wind, then a couple days of no-wind. Then a gale. We
calculate fuel. Not enough to finish the trip on engine alone. So we bob.

This isn't anything we are not used to. We've done a lot of bobbing on this
trip. But when we're so close to the finish line, it can be a bit
frustrating.

On the plus side, we've had a gorgeous sunny day today. Our first in over a
week. We spent some time lounging in the cockpit, which is a rare treat
these days. In addition, lots of bobbing leaves plenty of time for other
pursuits... I feel a hankering for cheesecake coming on...

DAY 33 - Typing with Mittens

It's June 9. Haven't been doing much typing, because it's a bit tricky with
mittens on. Spelling goes out the window. Caps Lock finds it's way on. And
the mouse pad does not respond well to fleeced thumbs.

Besides the temperature, there are other clues that we're getting closer to
home. Today we're at the 50 degrees of latitude. That's where we live. I'm
sure it can't possibly be 10'C in Campbell River, but it feels good to be
alongside of home. Other clues...we had to pick kelp of the monitor wind
vane paddle. And (drum roll please)...I caught a salmon! Ok, ok, it was a
Pink, and not a big one, but it made a delicious dinner.

We're living in a drip zone. Another memory of sailing in the north that
we'd conveniently forgotten about. Every window and hatch is a constant
source of condensation, and drips incessantly, leaving little moist trails
on the floor, the stove, the cabinets, the bedding...

The sailing is good. We've had enough wind to keep moving. Not always
directly towards our destination, but we are making progress. We're starting
to think about Sitka...should we splurge on a hotel? A massage? Or a trip to
the local rec centre and a new cabin heater?? 650 miles to go.

-----
June 9 noon report:
Position: 50-15N, 150-13W
669 miles to Sitka, Alaska
3642 miles travelled so far
24 hr DMG: 80 nm (our 3rd worst day)
24 hr DOG: 107 nm
24 hr speed SOG: 4.5 knots
Course: 060T
Wind: North 13 knots
Seas: Confused 1.5 meters

Daily position reports:
http://www.pangolin.co.nz/yotreps/tracker.php?ident=V73TN

Day 30 - 3/4 of the way!!

June 6. Day 30. 1000 miles to go!!!! Finally. This third quarter of the
passage seemed to pass much faster than the second. Thankfully. Hopefully
the final 1000 miles will follow that trend!

It was a good day. We continued to have decent wind, around 15 knots,
sending us in the right direction. Seas are about 2 meters, so the ride is
quite comfortable. Our 1000 mile celebration was lovely. I let John sleep a
little longer this morning and whipped up a few cupcakes at the end of my
watch. When he woke up, he used up our last two eggs*, added a dehydrated
pack of egg skillet delight, and a few potatoes, and we had a wonderful
scrambler for breaky. We opened our 1000 mile treat bag (new magazines,
dried mangos, glico pokey sticks, oreos and chocolates). We watched a bit of
tv this afternoon (we're now into the new PanAm tv show). For dinner we ate
the last of our mahi mahi. Looks like we have to start fishing again.

We are getting further away from the majority of the cruising fleet. It is
harder to hear other boats on the radio. We've been able to report our
position each day, but it is possible that we won't be able to report in on
a day with poor propagation. But, if voice fails us, we'll be able to report
in via email.

The good news about being further along is that John reckons we're now
within range of US Coast Guard helicopters. That's reassuring.

Well...we're on the home stretch. And it feels good. Alaska here we come...


*On a side note...I still find it amazing that eggs will last so long
without refrigeration - 30 days! And no sign of going bad. That said - these
last couple weeks, the cabin may as well have been a refrigerator.

-----
June 6 noon report:
Position: 46-59N, 154-52W
938 nm to Sitka, Alaska
3333 nm travelled so far
Ave spd 4.8 knots
24 hr DOG: 130 nm
24 hr DMG: 122 nm
Course: 038T
Speed: 5.2 knots

Daily position reports:
http://www.pangolin.co.nz/yotreps/tracker.php?ident=V73TN